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Title : Friendship
Category : Peak Ascent
Duration : 10 Days
Location : Himachal
Season : Summer (mar - june)
Autumn (sep - nov)
Grade : Technical
Anyone who has been up to Manali would not have missed the views
of the Friendship looming over the Northern sky. Manali, being a
popular location for the hindi film shoots, the peak is seen as
a backdrop in a lot of Bollywood films.
The name was given by the Indo French expedition which first
climbed this highest point on the Shiti Dhar ridge.
The peak offers great climbing at not so high altitude.
An easy climb up to the col of the south ridge which is very
sharp and exposed. To the right it drops precariously to the
valleys of Lahaul and on the left is the steep slope leading to
the huge crevasses of the Friendship Glacier. A perfect
objective for mountaineers looking for challenging trekking
peaks.
Day 01 : Delhi – Manali (1960m)
Board kalka Shatabdi leaving Delhi at 7:40 am to reach
Chandigarh at 11:00 am. Drive 8 hrs to reach Manali late in the
evening. Alternatively drive12 hrs straight from Delhi to Manali
Overnight Hotel.
Day 02 : In Manali
Easy start to the day. After breakfast get the equipment for the
climb sorted out. Fit yourself in your climbing gear (climbing
boots, crampons and your harness).
Post lunch spend time exploring the town. Options to visit the
Hadimba temple, the Vashisht hot water springs or the Roerich
Art Gallery in Naggar.
Day 03 : In Manali
After breakfast drive (2hrs) up to the Rohtang pass (4000m) and
hike 2-3 hrs to get acclimatized. Lunch at the pass and drive
back to Manali. Last minute shopping if any and pack up for the
climb.
Day 04 : Manali – Bakkarthach (3328m) 1hr drive and 3-4
hrs trek
After an early breakfast drive (1 hr) via Palchan and Solang
Nallah to Dhundi,(2850m), the starting point of the trek. The
short walk goes along the river Beas before crossing it and then
ascends steepily to reach the grazing grounds of Bakkarthach.
DMAS (Directorate of Mountaineering and Allied Sports) runs a
semi permanent camp here and uses the surrounding area to train
mountaineers.
Day 05 : Bakkarthach – Friendship Base Camp (3586m) 4-5
hrs
A short descent to the river and then a steep ascent brings us
to the base camp. We cross the river Beas on a makeshift log
bridge set up by the shepherds just below the snout of the Beas
Kund Glacier.
Day 06 : At Base Camp
Spend the day around the base camp practicing movement on snow /
ice. Get familiar with the use of your equipment. Learn the
ropes and the how to arrest a fall on the slope.
Day 07 : Base Camp – Camp I. 2-3 hrs
Trek Base Camp to Camp 1. A short acclimatization walk in the
afternoon.
Day 08 : At Camp I.
Use the day for acclimatization. Open the route till the
shoulder on the south east ridge and come back to Camp I.
Day 09 : Camp I – Summit – Base Camp
Wake up early in the morn and after a quick bite get ready for
the climb up to the summit. It’s best to be up at the summit
early in the morning to make the best of the weather and get
good views. Descend down to the base camp and party in the
evening.
Day 09 : Base Camp – Manali. 3-4 hrs trek and 1 hr drive
Trek Beas kund to the Dhundi, the roadhead. Overnight hotel in
Manali.
Day 10 : Manali – Delhi
Drive Manali to Chandigarh and board the Kalka Shatabdi leaving
at 18:20 to reach Delhi by 21:40. Alternatively drive 12 hrs
from Manali to Delhi.
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